1. Inspect the Facility: Before your procedure is scheduled, visit the business in person and evaluate its cleanliness and environment: Is it comfortable, quiet, and relaxing? Or is it noisy with loud music, conversation, or the sound of hair dryers? There should be a separate room for permanent makeup procedures. Ask to see it: Is the room sanitary and secluded, or can you smell chemicals from hair sprays or acrylic nails that contaminate the air? Move on if you’re not allowed to inspect the room; if it’s occupied, schedule a time to see it later. If the location is a doctor’s office, do not assume the tattooist will do good looking work. Most physicians advertising permanent makeup do not perform procedures themselves. They either hire a nurse or technician to work for them, or they rent out an exam room to someone. So you must screen tattoo artists in a doctor’s office as thoroughly as anyone else doing permanent cosmetics.


2. Look for a Health Department Permit: Permanent makeup technicians in “regulated cities” are inspected annually by the Health Department. But about half of the cities in Orange or Los Angeles County are not regulated. In a regulated city, the inspector visits a facility and examines the procedure room. He or she determines if the tattoo equipment is safe, correct sterilization methods are followed, etc. A permit is issued only if the business passes. Even when an artist tattoos inside a salon, spa, or doctor’s office, she will not be inspected if that business is located in a non-regulated city. Also, the health department may not know a technician exists if she works from home or travels to different locations. Those technicians who are “under the radar” are not inspected. For your health safety, never have permanent makeup done at any facility that cannot show you a valid health department permit.


3. How Much Training Does the Artist Have? California has no state board requiring a license to practice permanent cosmetics. No agency requires the passing of an examination. No board regulates school accreditation, the curriculum for primary or advanced training, or continuing education. All permanent makeup schools are not alike—basic training varies from a DVD course to a few days to several weeks. Tuition ranges from $99 for a DVD to a few hundred dollars to several thousand dollars. Students (and later their clients) get what they pay for. So ask for details about the technician’s education and look at certificates. Guidelines by the national professional societies recommend that a fundamental course of instruction be 100 hours minimum. Ask to see that basic training certificate to check for hours. Also ask to see certificates for advanced courses and training in Blood-Bourne Pathogen Control that follows CDC-OSHA guidelines.


4. Ask About the Equipment Used: Do not be fooled by an artist’s reassurance about using sterile needles. Even when single-use sterile needles are used, diseases can be transferred between people through body fluid and airborne particle contamination of the motor or hand piece—this is called “cross-contamination.” With most rotary pen tattoo devices, many steps are needed to clean and disinfect the motor mechanism and hand piece. The parts must be autoclaved to be sterilized or disposed of and replaced completely. If the technician skips a step or performs it incorrectly, cross-contamination can occur. And some machines should never be used because they allow cross-contamination even when properly cleaned. The only devices that prevent cross-contamination are the disposable Nouveau Contour System, I-Star System, or manual hand tools. With other types of equipment, there is no way to guarantee safety from cross-contamination unless it has been inspected and approved by the health department.


5. Look at Photos of the Artist’s Work: Technicians can buy manufacturer’s brochures and website templates with models who are not their clients. Frequently the makeup shown is regular makeup, not tattoo makeup. Some technicians have even copied photos from books or other websites to use as examples of their own work. The only way to evaluate the abilities of a technician is to see her portfolio of “Before” and “After” pictures of real clients. They should include “Immediately After” and “Healed After” photos to show how the healing process changes and lightens colors. Look at her abilities to customize makeup design: Do all eyebrow shapes look alike or are they customized to the client and flattering? Look at colors: Are pigment choices appropriate for different ethnic groups and skin tones? Look at results: Can she create different looks like “soft and natural” or “glamorous” based upon a client’s preference? Are there examples of advanced techniques such as color shading, hair stroke eyebrows, or scar camouflage? Any talented cosmetic tattoo artist who is experienced will not hesitate to show photos of her or his original work. It takes time to build a portfolio, so a new or low-volume technician may not have one at all, or have one purchased from a supplier or trainer. If the artist has no portfolio, resists showing it, or makes excuses, that is a red flag to move on.


6. What is the Technician’s Background? Beware of anyone claiming to be “licensed” for permanent makeup since no license exists for that in California. The person is probably a licensed cosmetologist, esthetician, or manicurist.* The 2009 Industry Profile Study of the Society of Permanent Cosmetics Professionals (SPCP) reports that most members (80%) have beauty backgrounds (esthetician, cosmetologist, nail technician, or electrologist). About 30% have “other” backgrounds (traditional tattoo artist, massage therapist). Only 10.8% of its members are nurses and 1.8% physicians. The beauty expertise of the non-medical technicians may be excellent, but their education in anatomy and physiology is limited. Since permanent makeup schools are not regulated, any technician without medical experience might practice according to inferior training and not even realize when she is cross-contaminating during a procedure.

*Note: The practice of permanent cosmetics is not regulated by the California Cosmetology Board, and it is not in the scope of practice of anyone licensed by the Board (cosmetologist, esthetician, manicurist, barber, or electrologist). The Board’s regulations “specifically prohibit invasive procedures that affect the structure or function of living tissue of the face or body” and “permanent cosmetics is considered an invasive procedure.” The Board has been reviewing laws relating to the practice of permanent makeup conducted in Board licensed establishments (e.g. spas, hair, nail, and skincare salons). A decision with a firm plan of action has not yet been made. (Sources: CA Board of Barbering and Cosmetology Business and Professions Codes 7317, 7320; Title 16, California Code of Regulations 991)

7. Qualify the Person’s Experience: You may not want your permanent makeup done by a brand new technician, so ask how long she has been tattooing. But do not assume that anyone doing it a “long time” (15 or 20 years) will do beautiful work. Since California has no licensing or continuing education requirements, those long-time technicians may use outdated equipment and techniques. Also, many technicians do not tattoo makeup on a regular basis. Sometimes permanent makeup is offered as an extra service in a beauty salon or spa, but the technician spends more time performing other beauty services (e.g. facials). The 2009 SPCP Industry Study says that only 27% of its members practice permanent cosmetics exclusively (fulltime). The national average for new procedures per month is only 6.3. So in addition to asking a technician how long she has been practicing, ask how many procedures she performs each week. A successful artist who performs several hundred procedures each year has better skills, more experience, and returning clients.
   
   
8. Is the Business “Legitimate”? Running a real permanent cosmetics business requires hard work and commitment. It means the owner has made a significant financial investment for expenses such as overhead (rent and utilities), taxes, and fees. Some people make money on the side by doing permanent makeup from home or in a back room of a salon. They can afford to charge less because they operate “under the radar” without a city business license, health department permit, or liability insurance. They ask for cash and do not accept credit cards or personal checks (probably to avoid paying income taxes). If a client has a problem or wants to file a complaint, those “technicians” usually disappear. So it is important that you select a permanent makeup artist who abides by our laws and is committed to the long-term success of her practice. Consider paying a little more to support a technician who operates a legitimate, honest business. That can be a win-win situation: Her business will survive, grow, and still be around in the future when you need another appointment.


9. How Long Will A First Appointment Take? Beautiful, comfortable, and safe makeup tattooing is never rushed. It may take several hours when done correctly, especially if you are a new client. A well-trained and experienced artist will follow many important steps for best results: You should have a consultation with the opportunity to ask questions, look at photos, and explain what you want. Proper topical anesthetics should always be used before and during the tattoo process—with enough time allowed for taking effect to avoid pain. Before you are touched with a needle, makeup designing should be done to your satisfaction while you are sitting upright (due to gravity). If the technician does nothing and has you lie down to start tattooing, get up and leave! The artist should have a large selection of professional pigments to match the color you want that is right for you. Proper after care instructions should be thoroughly explained, and before and after photos should also be taken. A technician who cuts corners, is poorly trained, or is indifferent and careless may finish your permanent makeup in about an hour or so. Unfortunately, you might suffer with unnecessary pain, ugly makeup, or both.


10. Professional Association Memberships: Ask the artist if she has joined any professional associations like the American Academy of Micropigmentation (AAM) or the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP). Although membership cannot guarantee you will have great results, it shows that the artist strives to be one of the best. National professional associations require members to have a minimum number of training hours and to abide by a code of ethics. They also offer continuing education meetings and board certification programs. An association membership is voluntary, but it does require a substantial fee. Member technicians take their work seriously, have a desire for ongoing learning, and are dedicated to supporting the profession.
    
11. Ask for References and Referrals: Any reputable, professional permanent makeup artist should willingly provide references of satisfied clients. If they cannot provide any you should go elsewhere. Referrals are also important—ask your friends, family members, or co-workers if they have had permanent makeup applied by someone they would recommend. But don’t rely solely on referrals—do your homework and follow the guidelines on this page to choose the best technician for you.
    
    
12. Consider Price LAST: Even in today’s economy, you should never make a decision about a cosmetic procedure based on price alone. With few laws regulating permanent makeup, as a consumer you are at risk. A low price can mean a technician is a beginner and needs experience, or is not busy and desperately needs money, or is cutting corners to save time or supply costs. An experienced and skilled permanent makeup artist who practices safely, correctly, and ethically will not have the lowest prices—because she cannot remain in business otherwise. So f ollow the tips above and ask what a procedure fee includes to compare apples to apples. Remember “you get what you pay for” and a cheap price or deal can cost you more in the end (ugly makeup, pain, or a disease). Permanent makeup is an investment in your face and body. It can last a lifetime, so it is worth paying a little more to protect your looks and your health.

    All reputable permanent cosmetic professionals will not hesitate to answer your questions, show examples of their work, or display their credentials. Protect yourself and be informed, be careful, and be safe—you are worth it!

Please click on one of the page links below for additional information: